KitchenAid KP26M1PSL Professional 600 Series 6-Quart Stand Mixer, Silver

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Brand : KitchenAid
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Post Date : Mar 08, 2012 19:00:22
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KitchenAid Professional 600 series (KP26M1P) stand mixer's deliver power, versatility and reliable performance to make this the #1 choice for the kitchen.

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Breville 800JEXL Juice Fountain Elite 1000-Watt Juice Extractor

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Brand : Breville
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Post Date : Feb 28, 2012 19:17:02
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The Breville 800JEXL Juice Fountain Elite with 1000 watts is super efficient. This model has an Italian made electronic motor that increases power under yield to maintain filter revolutions. It has two speeds for soft and hard fruits and a three inch feed tube which minimizes preparation and feeding time. Beautifully designed stainless die cast steel housing and motor body makes it a work of art on the countertop. While juicing, you may notice juice escaping between the plastic juicer cover and the stainless steel filter bowl surround. Try pushing the Food Pusher down more slowly and using the low speed. When large quantities of fruits and vegetables, especially those with high water content such tomatoes and watermelon, are fed into the Feed Chute at a rapid rate, the stainless steel filter basket coverts these into juice so quickly that the force may cause leaking.

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Brand : Hoover | Rate : | Price : $139.83
Post Date : Feb 18, 2012 18:13:10 | Usually ships in 24 hours

SteamVac features SpinScrub-- the Multiple Brush System with 5 self-adjusting brushes for outstanding cleaning performance.

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Brand : Amazon | Rate : | Price : $50.00
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Simran AR-3000 3000-Watt Heavy Duty Voltage Regulator/Stabilizer with Built-In Step Up/Down Voltage Transformer, Grey

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Brand : Simran
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voltage regulator 3000 watts with power surge built in. Brand new never opened, continuous use power rating 3000 watts at 30 amps max rating

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2000 Watt Voltage Converter Regulator Heavy Duty Step Up/Down 110/120/220/240V

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Brand : buyVoltageConverters | Rate : | Price :
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2000 Watt Voltage Converter Regulator Heavy Duty Step Up/Down 110/120/220/240V

Converts 110/120V to 220/240V OR converts 220/240V to 110/120V (switch is on back of unit) On/Off switch with indicator lamp. Analog meter on front of unit shows exact output voltage. Voltage stabilizer good for countries with unstable voltage supply. 4 outlets on front of unit (outlets accept 3 or 2 prong US plugs and 2 prong Euro/Asian plugs). Insulated power cord is hard wired with a US Shucko plug (grounded 3 prong US adapter)

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Power Tools For the Professional or the Do it Yourself Enthusiast

!: Power Tools For the Professional or the Do it Yourself Enthusiast

Whatever your background or requirement power tools are used in almost every environment to improve productivity and usually improve the quality of the work undertaken. When we refer to power tools we usually refer to corded power tools or cordless power tools. There are however a comprehensive range of pneumatic power tools which are great if you have compressed air available. Pneumatic tools lack the obvious portability of electrically powered tools and are frequently confined to the workshop environment where the work comes to the tools rather than the tools going to the work

The electric drill was regarded by most as the first powered hand tool. The first electric drill was patented in Australia on 20th August 1889 an attributed to Arthur James Arnot. This first drill was primarily intended for heavy industrial use and was invented before most communities were even supplied with electricity. In 1917, Black and Decker introduced and patented the pistol grip and also the trigger switch familiar on most products available today. This was the basis of the modern electric drill and later models were soon shipped in thousands. 1961 saw the first battery powered drill and as technology improves and prices fall we are now in a position where the battery powered drills have taken over from the corded big brother.

The brief history just serves to illustrate the development of the drill and close on the heels of the drill were many other corded and cordless power tools. Mains powered devices operate on a variety of voltages 120v in the US and in Europe we operate on two voltages. We have 220-240v powered tools normally used in the home and for the less demanding applications whereas in the construction arena health and safety demands 110v units powered by 220-240v to 110v transformers. Battery powered tools use different battery types and operate at different voltages. The power screwdriver is the least demanding of the electrically operated tools in the power toolbox and may be supplied with as little as 3.6v batteries. The capability of the batteries has increased year by year as we have seen battery technology move gently from 9.6v to 36v such that we now have tools supplied with batteries rated at 12v, 14.4v, 18v, 24v and 36v. Needless to say the 36v tools are much more expensive than the 12v tools. The development in battery technology has been considerably more than just building larger battery packs. The latest batteries are Lithium-ion or Li-Ion batteries which enable more battery power to be delivered and batteries can be quickly recharged.

With the advent of these higher voltage batteries we now have a wider range of battery powered cordless tools. The cordless circular saw was not viable before the 18v or possibly the 24v batteries became available. The SDS drill and demolition drill had always been corded until the latest range of batteries mean there are now SDS and demolition cordless drills on the market operated on 36v power packs.

Woodworking powertools have always been popular both in the construction industry and for DIY enthusiast. Increasingly the cordless power tools are being used in all areas of industry where just a few years ago the batteries would just not be man enough, or need recharging too frequently or just too expensive. We now have cordless jigsaws, Kango Drills and Breakers, Metal Cutting Saws, Percussion Drills, Reciprocating Saws, Sanders, SDS Drills, Wall Chasers, Band saws, routers, planers and other specialist powered tools.

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Power Bright VC2000W Voltage Transformer 2000 Watt Step Up/Down 110 Volt - 220 Volt

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Brand : Power Bright | Rate : | Price : $88.39
Post Date : Dec 03, 2011 07:38:21 | Usually ships in 24 hours

Power Bright VC2000W Voltage Transformer 2000 Watt Step Up/Down 110 Volt - 220 Volt

This is a voltage converter or transformer that can be used as a step up transformer in 110/120 volt countries or as a step down transformer in 220/230/240 volt countries. This heavy duty voltage transformer can be used for continuous duty. It will convert voltages of 220-240 volts to 110-120 and will also convert voltages from 110-120 to 220-240 volts.

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VCT AR8000 Heavy Duty 8000 Watts Automatic Voltage Regulator / Stabilizer with Built-in Voltage Transformer for AC 110V / 220V / 240V

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8000 watts maximum capacityConverts 110/120 V to 220/240 V OR converts 220/240 V to 110/120V Compatible with 50Hz/60Hz.On/Off switch with indicator lampVoltage stabilizer good for countries with unstable voltage supplyThis stabilizer can regulate big range fluctuating voltage into general voltage output.Input Voltage AC 75V-130V or 180V-260V.Output Voltage: AC 110V+-4% or AC220V+-4%.Durable Design with 2 Heavy-Duty Carrying HandlesFuse protected with built-in thermal Fuse - protects damage to your valuable equipment from voltage fluctuation.Comes with terminal Connectors - Hardwire Input and Output required.

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Yacht Power Inverters - A Guide

!: Yacht Power Inverters - A Guide

Power inverters

Computers, hi-fi and microwave ovens use considerable power, so if you're considering using them on board you'll probably need power inverters.

An inverter is probably one of the first extras most owners consider buying for their boat, whatever size it is. The ability to use 240V equipment when you are on passage or moored away from a shore supply is prized by most people. At the same time, an inverter is one of the easiest items to install, providing you understand the basic steps involved. Inverters range in size from 50W to 4kW, and can power most items that you now plug into the mains, but you need to understand their limitations, and for that you need to understand what makes them tick.

How they work An inverter takes low-voltage direct current (DC) from batteries, usually 12V or 24V, and converts it to high-voltage alternating current (AC), either 110V, 230V or 240V. The process is the same as your battery charger, except in reverse, and some combi models double as chargers, using the same basic electronics inside. Early inverters used transformers to step the volts up, and were heavy, but most modern models use solid-state electronics, both to step up the voltage and to convert the current from DC to AC, and are correspondingly lighter.

Domestic mains supply voltage follows a sine-wave form with a rounded top as the current alternates. But, while this wave form is easily produced by a rotating generator in a power station, it's more complex and costly to produce electronically and wastes more power. Instead many inverters use a modified sine-wave, or quasi sine-wave, which has a flat topped or square curve. The modified sine-wave powers most AC equipment, but can struggle with some items, particularly electronics with internal power supplies and digital timers like computers, TVs and microwave ovens. Recently the internal power supplies for most electronic equipment have changed to switch-mode systems, which better handle poorer quality incoming AC. At the same time, the standard of the best modified sine-waves has improved markedly, close to that of a pure sine-wave.

Yacht batteries and marine batteries

An inverter can provide high outputs but all this power has to come from your batteries. Short burst high power appliances like a microwave oven, kettle, toaster or hair-dryer are fine, but to run heaters or machines for long, you need a very large battery bank or engine power.

As we have said, virtually anything that you now plug into the mains can be run from an inverter, but the size of your unit governs what it will power. Up to 500W you can run computers, TV, hi-fi, battery chargers for your mobile phone and cameras, and even a 240V domestic fridge, though not always all at the same time.

Up to 1,000W, and you can add a small travel hair-dryer. For most people however the big plus is being able to run a microwave oven and for this you will need at least 1,500W, preferably 1,800W. Don't be confused by the 60OW or 80OW rating on most microwaves. This is the useful cooking power they generate, not the amount of power going in, which will be double this figure.

And at this size, your inverter should also power a standard hair-dryer, plus possibly a kettle, toaster and coffee-maker, though these may require 2kW.

Installing an inverter is within the capabilities of a competent DIY electrician, but if you've any doubts, leave it to a professional. A 2kW, 12V inverter will be drawing up to 200A from your batteries, more than many engine starter motors, so you need large diameter cables, short runs, and good connections. For the higher output models, use 50mm cables (35mm for lower outputs), a maximum of 1.5m long with properly crimped lugs, not screw connectors as they work loose. Anything less and you could lose too much power down the line, which means reduced performance and possibly tripping the inverter. You need proper cable from a battery dealer or automotive electrical supplier. Measure the exact length you want before you buy. They will probably crimp the terminals on for you, but check the diameter of the studs. Most batteries will be 8mm, but the inverter may be l0mm.

If you have to mount the inverter further away, use 70mm cable, or two 35mm cables in parallel for both positive and negative.

Unless a main input fuse is already fitted, you'll have to fit a 250A fuse in the supply line. It's also a good idea to have a separate battery master switch in line, so you can disconnect the unit completely. This must be capable of taking 250A continuous load. Check the size of its terminal studs - they will usually be l0mm.

The DC input terminals on some units were very close together, risking short circuit. If there are no plastic terminal covers, fit your own.

Your battery bank is a major consideration when fitting any but the smallest inverter ...If you take 200A out of a fully-charged 200Ah bank, the voltage at the battery terminals will drop from 12.6V to 11.0V at the inverter. If the bank is only half-charged, the voltage could be down to 10.5V, close to the low voltage tripping point of 10.0-10.5V.

If you're fitting a 21kW inverter, you should have a minimum of 400Ah batteries, preferably 600Ah. For a 1 kw unit, you will need 200Ah, preferably 300Ah.

All these figures assume the engine is not running, which is the usual situation when moored. If you start it up, you will get an input from the alternator, and the battery volts will rise, which will improve the situation, but you should not rely on this.

The condition of your batteries is also important. High continuous current drains will hammer the bank, and quickly find out any weak cells. Gel or AGM batteries will be better able to handle continuous heavy loads.

The 230V output from the inverter will be either one or more sockets on the front, or you may have to hard-wire a cable internally Again, only do this if you are sure of your proficiency. UK three-pin outlets are best fitted sideways or upside down so that large plugs or power-supplies dont foul the base.

Because the inverters have to be close to the batteries, they will usually be mounted in the engine space, or at least away from the galley area. But because most of them have a continuous residual current drain in standby-mode, you don't want to leave them permanently switched on. A remote control panel allows you to turn off the inverter when it's not needed.

Ideally you should fit a change-over switch in the output circuit to switch the incoming AC power between shore supply, generator, and inverter. It's important that you don't have two different power sources feeding into your ring main at the same time. Make sure you get the polarity right when connecting the DC or you could damage the unit

Any piece of electronic equipment will give a high short-term output, but will quickly cut out as it heats up. Best practice is to use the continuous rating to describe the unit. Having said that, the intermittent rating is important, as some pieces of AC equipment, particularly those with motors in them, have a start-up surge that needs a short burst of higher power.

Most power inverters drain a continuous current when switched on, even when you're not using them. This standby current will be at least 2A, sometimes more, which, over 24 hours, it could drain 50Ah or more from the batteries.

This is why a remote control is important. Some models have a powersave mode. This sends the unit to sleep while nothing is connected and wakes it up when it's needed. The drawback to this is that tiny currents, like the timer light on a microwave, will not trigger the unit, so the microwave won't start. Your mobile phone charger will also probably not activate the inverter, so you still need to turn it on manually.

Yacht Power Inverters - A Guide

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LiteFuze LT-2000 2000 Watt Heavy Duty Voltage Converter Transformer - Step Up/Down 110/120/220/240V - Fully Grounded Cord (Free Euro Plug) - Patented Universal Output Socket - Circuit Breaker Protection

2000 Watt Maximum Capacity Heavy-Duty Voltage Converter/Transformer Heavy duty for continuous use On/Off Power Switch LED Indicator for Power Source Single phase Dual Voltage Step Up or Step Down functionality Input: 110V/120V or 220V/230V/240V (Single Phase) Output 110V/120V or 220V/230V/240V (Single Phase) Input Selection in the rear of the converter Dimensions: 7.25" x 9.75" x 6" * Weight: 29 lbs. Four outlets for output in the front - 1 socket - Universal outlet (220v) - 1 socket - German Shucko outlet (220v) - 2 sockets - USA Grounded (110v) Fuse protected - Fuse will cut off the current if the transformer is overloaded to protect the transformer and your appliance NOTE: We recommend to use a Voltage Converter / Transformer that's max watts is at least 50% higher than your appliance. Some appliances such as Power tools, Motors, Laser printers and TVs require 2-3 times more watts at start up than the printed rating.

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European Power Converter - Finding the Best

!: European Power Converter - Finding the Best

When you're ready to travel across the country, you're going to find that your electronics may not be able to plug into the outlets, since a place like Europe is going to use a different type of power. Instead of purchasing a laptop, TV, or whatever it may be to work there, there are some converters that are going to work for you.

How can I find the right one?

The first thing that you're going to ask yourself is where you're heading. If you're going to Europe from the United States, you will want to find one that converts from the USA to Europe. If you're going from Europe to the USA, you will want to get one that's the other way around. Some will work with both, but it's important that you read the description to see which one is going to work for you.

Listed below are a few that you should check out when you're ready to make your purchase.

All-In-One Travel Power Plug - It's less than and is going to work with it's built in plug. Its convenient and it's fairly easy to use. You can plug this adapter in and it's going to work in over 150 countries! Simran 200 Watts - This one is going to set you back about . It converts 220/240V foreign power to 110V. It's great for laptops, ipods, battery chargers, and more. Universal World Wide by Eforcity - The last one on my list is very compact and is going to work in countries such as Europe, the Middle East, Africa, and more. It also comes with a built in surge protector.

European Power Converter - Finding the Best

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8 Common Voltage Converter Questions Answered

!: 8 Common Voltage Converter Questions Answered

Ten years ago, voltage converters were a curiosity... it was fantastic to know that we had mastered our universe to the degree that mains electricity could be converted to our requirements, but overall, converters weren't part of the daily lives of many. Nowadays, with the democratization of consumer electronics thanks to the Internet as well as increasing international travel, voltage converters are a common and necessary fact of life for many. Today we check out answers to 8 of the most common questions that people have about converters.

1. How do I know which converter to buy?
This will depend on the country that your appliance was manufactured in, the country in which you are using it, and its wattage or amperage. If you live in a country with 110V mains power and are buying from a country with 220V or 240V mains power, you'll need a step down converter. If you live in a country with 220V or 240V power and are buying from a 110V country, you'll need a step-up converter.

2. How do I know the wattage of my appliance?
You'll also need to know the wattage of your appliance to buy the correct converter, which you can usually discover by finding the little sticker or engraved information on it. Choose a voltage converter that is rated for slightly higher wattage than your appliance to ensure good performance.

3. Are there different requirements for TVs?
Yes. If you want to use a converter with your TV, you'll need a deluxe automatic voltage regulator rated for around 20% higher wattage than your set, because they create a power surge when they are turned on.

4. My American dryer is 220V, do I need a voltage converter to use it in Europe?
American dryers are usually 2-phase 100V power, compared to the single-phase 200V power in Europe.

5. Can I plug a powerboard into a voltage converter?
You can, but your voltage converter will need to be rated high enough to handle all of the appliances that will be plugged into the power board.

6. Do I need a voltage converter or a voltage regulator?
That depends on your appliance; a voltage regulator does the same job as a converter, but also stabilizes the current to plus or minus 4% of the voltage standard. In real life, while countries are said to run on 110V or 220V power, it can actually vary between 75V and 130V for 110V countries, and 180V to 260V in 200v countries.

7. I want to use the converter in a country with different plug pin shapes, what should I do?
Easy! Just put a plug adapter on top of your converter.

8. Do I need to convert the cycle (Hz)?
American power runs at around 60Hz, many foreign countries run at 50Hz. This will affect any appliances with motors (which will run more slowly), as well as clocks, which won't keep correct time.

Voltage converters are simple devices that are essential in our complex world!

8 Common Voltage Converter Questions Answered

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Arc Welding

!: Arc Welding

Arc welding is probably the most easily and readily available welding process on the face of the earth.

Just about anyone can get access to an one of these machines. Also called stick welding, and the technical name for this welding process is manual metal arc welding or MMAW for short.

But don't go around town saying that you can do or are doing MMAW welding or that you are doing manual metal arc welding. People will look at you and think you are a few beers short of a six pack.

It is just called arc welding or stick welding.

One of the main reasons why arc welding and stick welding is so readily available in any county is the simplicity of the arc welding process and machine.

Essentially an arc welder is just a big electrical transformer. Its job is to transform electricity. What does it transform it into you ask? Well the transformer in an arc welder will transform the power coming into the welder, i.e. from the power point at 110v, 220 or 240v or 415v etc into a more stable and controlled power supply that is usable for welding.

As hard as it is to believe, when you are arc welding the actual voltage at the welding arc is only very small, around about 20 volts give or take up or down a few.

So the transformer transforms the power from say 240volts down to about 20volts and in doing this it will allow there to be a usable welding arc.

Most arc welding and stick welding machines are DC, which is direct current. The electricity comes in from the power lead that is plugged into the wall socket at say 240v AC, and the transformer does its bit and steps the voltage down and rectifies the circuit so that it is now a DC source, ideal for welding.

You know that you can grab two 12 volt car batteries and hook them together to make 24 volts, and like this you can weld with them. Yeah true. Car batteries have very large current drawing capabilities, which is exactly what you need for welding. And see how the two batteries will equal 24volts, this is good enough to arc weld with.

Many people who go four wheel driving and long distance bush driving in Australia will usually have two batteries in their four wheel drives (SUV). So all you have to do is throw in a pack of general purpose electrodes either E6013 or E6012 of a small diameter (try 2.0mm) and you can arc weld out in the middle of the dessert if you needed to.

Any smart traveler will have a set of jumper leads in the back of the vehicle. So all you have to do is join the two batteries together using some existing wiring from the vehicle. This is done by joining the positive terminal of one battery to the negative terminal of the other battery.

Then simply clamp the jumper leads to the now larger 24volt battery, and you have a quick and simple arc welding machine that you can use to make roadside repairs in the middle of nowhere.

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Arc welding can be easy to learn if you do it the right way the first time.

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240 volt to 120 volt stepdown transformer

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1KVA 240v to 120v step down transformer. i use to run my 110v airconditioner from the 240v outlet. the transformer is capable of other voltages(480) with different configurations of jumpers.

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Simran THG-2000 Step Down Voltage Transformer 2000 Watts Converts AC 220 / 240 Volt to 110 Volt

• 2000 Watt maximum capacity heavy-duty continuous use transformer.
• Converts single phase 220/240 Volts down to 110/120 Volts. Compatible with 50Hz/60Hz.
• One grounded outlet in front of unit (accepts 3 or 2 prong US and Euro plugs)
• Hard wired with a European Shucko plug also good for Asian outlets. Durable design with a heavy-duty cord.
• Built-in fuse protection ~ Comes with 2 extra fuses. CE Approved and Certified

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Simran THG-2000 Step Down Voltage Transformer 2000 Watts Converts AC 220 / 240 Volt to 110 Volt

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