Inside the Logitech Z-5500.(part two)

!: Inside the Logitech Z-5500.(part two)

My opened Logitech Z-5500.

Inside the Logitech Z-5500.(part two)

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Power Tools For the Professional or the Do it Yourself Enthusiast

!: Power Tools For the Professional or the Do it Yourself Enthusiast

Whatever your background or requirement power tools are used in almost every environment to improve productivity and usually improve the quality of the work undertaken. When we refer to power tools we usually refer to corded power tools or cordless power tools. There are however a comprehensive range of pneumatic power tools which are great if you have compressed air available. Pneumatic tools lack the obvious portability of electrically powered tools and are frequently confined to the workshop environment where the work comes to the tools rather than the tools going to the work

The electric drill was regarded by most as the first powered hand tool. The first electric drill was patented in Australia on 20th August 1889 an attributed to Arthur James Arnot. This first drill was primarily intended for heavy industrial use and was invented before most communities were even supplied with electricity. In 1917, Black and Decker introduced and patented the pistol grip and also the trigger switch familiar on most products available today. This was the basis of the modern electric drill and later models were soon shipped in thousands. 1961 saw the first battery powered drill and as technology improves and prices fall we are now in a position where the battery powered drills have taken over from the corded big brother.

The brief history just serves to illustrate the development of the drill and close on the heels of the drill were many other corded and cordless power tools. Mains powered devices operate on a variety of voltages 120v in the US and in Europe we operate on two voltages. We have 220-240v powered tools normally used in the home and for the less demanding applications whereas in the construction arena health and safety demands 110v units powered by 220-240v to 110v transformers. Battery powered tools use different battery types and operate at different voltages. The power screwdriver is the least demanding of the electrically operated tools in the power toolbox and may be supplied with as little as 3.6v batteries. The capability of the batteries has increased year by year as we have seen battery technology move gently from 9.6v to 36v such that we now have tools supplied with batteries rated at 12v, 14.4v, 18v, 24v and 36v. Needless to say the 36v tools are much more expensive than the 12v tools. The development in battery technology has been considerably more than just building larger battery packs. The latest batteries are Lithium-ion or Li-Ion batteries which enable more battery power to be delivered and batteries can be quickly recharged.

With the advent of these higher voltage batteries we now have a wider range of battery powered cordless tools. The cordless circular saw was not viable before the 18v or possibly the 24v batteries became available. The SDS drill and demolition drill had always been corded until the latest range of batteries mean there are now SDS and demolition cordless drills on the market operated on 36v power packs.

Woodworking powertools have always been popular both in the construction industry and for DIY enthusiast. Increasingly the cordless power tools are being used in all areas of industry where just a few years ago the batteries would just not be man enough, or need recharging too frequently or just too expensive. We now have cordless jigsaws, Kango Drills and Breakers, Metal Cutting Saws, Percussion Drills, Reciprocating Saws, Sanders, SDS Drills, Wall Chasers, Band saws, routers, planers and other specialist powered tools.

Power Tools For the Professional or the Do it Yourself Enthusiast

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Power Bright VC2000W Voltage Transformer 2000 Watt Step Up/Down 110 Volt - 220 Volt

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Power Bright VC2000W Voltage Transformer 2000 Watt Step Up/Down 110 Volt - 220 Volt

This is a voltage converter or transformer that can be used as a step up transformer in 110/120 volt countries or as a step down transformer in 220/230/240 volt countries. This heavy duty voltage transformer can be used for continuous duty. It will convert voltages of 220-240 volts to 110-120 and will also convert voltages from 110-120 to 220-240 volts.

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8000 watts maximum capacityConverts 110/120 V to 220/240 V OR converts 220/240 V to 110/120V Compatible with 50Hz/60Hz.On/Off switch with indicator lampVoltage stabilizer good for countries with unstable voltage supplyThis stabilizer can regulate big range fluctuating voltage into general voltage output.Input Voltage AC 75V-130V or 180V-260V.Output Voltage: AC 110V+-4% or AC220V+-4%.Durable Design with 2 Heavy-Duty Carrying HandlesFuse protected with built-in thermal Fuse - protects damage to your valuable equipment from voltage fluctuation.Comes with terminal Connectors - Hardwire Input and Output required.

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Yacht Power Inverters - A Guide

!: Yacht Power Inverters - A Guide

Power inverters

Computers, hi-fi and microwave ovens use considerable power, so if you're considering using them on board you'll probably need power inverters.

An inverter is probably one of the first extras most owners consider buying for their boat, whatever size it is. The ability to use 240V equipment when you are on passage or moored away from a shore supply is prized by most people. At the same time, an inverter is one of the easiest items to install, providing you understand the basic steps involved. Inverters range in size from 50W to 4kW, and can power most items that you now plug into the mains, but you need to understand their limitations, and for that you need to understand what makes them tick.

How they work An inverter takes low-voltage direct current (DC) from batteries, usually 12V or 24V, and converts it to high-voltage alternating current (AC), either 110V, 230V or 240V. The process is the same as your battery charger, except in reverse, and some combi models double as chargers, using the same basic electronics inside. Early inverters used transformers to step the volts up, and were heavy, but most modern models use solid-state electronics, both to step up the voltage and to convert the current from DC to AC, and are correspondingly lighter.

Domestic mains supply voltage follows a sine-wave form with a rounded top as the current alternates. But, while this wave form is easily produced by a rotating generator in a power station, it's more complex and costly to produce electronically and wastes more power. Instead many inverters use a modified sine-wave, or quasi sine-wave, which has a flat topped or square curve. The modified sine-wave powers most AC equipment, but can struggle with some items, particularly electronics with internal power supplies and digital timers like computers, TVs and microwave ovens. Recently the internal power supplies for most electronic equipment have changed to switch-mode systems, which better handle poorer quality incoming AC. At the same time, the standard of the best modified sine-waves has improved markedly, close to that of a pure sine-wave.

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An inverter can provide high outputs but all this power has to come from your batteries. Short burst high power appliances like a microwave oven, kettle, toaster or hair-dryer are fine, but to run heaters or machines for long, you need a very large battery bank or engine power.

As we have said, virtually anything that you now plug into the mains can be run from an inverter, but the size of your unit governs what it will power. Up to 500W you can run computers, TV, hi-fi, battery chargers for your mobile phone and cameras, and even a 240V domestic fridge, though not always all at the same time.

Up to 1,000W, and you can add a small travel hair-dryer. For most people however the big plus is being able to run a microwave oven and for this you will need at least 1,500W, preferably 1,800W. Don't be confused by the 60OW or 80OW rating on most microwaves. This is the useful cooking power they generate, not the amount of power going in, which will be double this figure.

And at this size, your inverter should also power a standard hair-dryer, plus possibly a kettle, toaster and coffee-maker, though these may require 2kW.

Installing an inverter is within the capabilities of a competent DIY electrician, but if you've any doubts, leave it to a professional. A 2kW, 12V inverter will be drawing up to 200A from your batteries, more than many engine starter motors, so you need large diameter cables, short runs, and good connections. For the higher output models, use 50mm cables (35mm for lower outputs), a maximum of 1.5m long with properly crimped lugs, not screw connectors as they work loose. Anything less and you could lose too much power down the line, which means reduced performance and possibly tripping the inverter. You need proper cable from a battery dealer or automotive electrical supplier. Measure the exact length you want before you buy. They will probably crimp the terminals on for you, but check the diameter of the studs. Most batteries will be 8mm, but the inverter may be l0mm.

If you have to mount the inverter further away, use 70mm cable, or two 35mm cables in parallel for both positive and negative.

Unless a main input fuse is already fitted, you'll have to fit a 250A fuse in the supply line. It's also a good idea to have a separate battery master switch in line, so you can disconnect the unit completely. This must be capable of taking 250A continuous load. Check the size of its terminal studs - they will usually be l0mm.

The DC input terminals on some units were very close together, risking short circuit. If there are no plastic terminal covers, fit your own.

Your battery bank is a major consideration when fitting any but the smallest inverter ...If you take 200A out of a fully-charged 200Ah bank, the voltage at the battery terminals will drop from 12.6V to 11.0V at the inverter. If the bank is only half-charged, the voltage could be down to 10.5V, close to the low voltage tripping point of 10.0-10.5V.

If you're fitting a 21kW inverter, you should have a minimum of 400Ah batteries, preferably 600Ah. For a 1 kw unit, you will need 200Ah, preferably 300Ah.

All these figures assume the engine is not running, which is the usual situation when moored. If you start it up, you will get an input from the alternator, and the battery volts will rise, which will improve the situation, but you should not rely on this.

The condition of your batteries is also important. High continuous current drains will hammer the bank, and quickly find out any weak cells. Gel or AGM batteries will be better able to handle continuous heavy loads.

The 230V output from the inverter will be either one or more sockets on the front, or you may have to hard-wire a cable internally Again, only do this if you are sure of your proficiency. UK three-pin outlets are best fitted sideways or upside down so that large plugs or power-supplies dont foul the base.

Because the inverters have to be close to the batteries, they will usually be mounted in the engine space, or at least away from the galley area. But because most of them have a continuous residual current drain in standby-mode, you don't want to leave them permanently switched on. A remote control panel allows you to turn off the inverter when it's not needed.

Ideally you should fit a change-over switch in the output circuit to switch the incoming AC power between shore supply, generator, and inverter. It's important that you don't have two different power sources feeding into your ring main at the same time. Make sure you get the polarity right when connecting the DC or you could damage the unit

Any piece of electronic equipment will give a high short-term output, but will quickly cut out as it heats up. Best practice is to use the continuous rating to describe the unit. Having said that, the intermittent rating is important, as some pieces of AC equipment, particularly those with motors in them, have a start-up surge that needs a short burst of higher power.

Most power inverters drain a continuous current when switched on, even when you're not using them. This standby current will be at least 2A, sometimes more, which, over 24 hours, it could drain 50Ah or more from the batteries.

This is why a remote control is important. Some models have a powersave mode. This sends the unit to sleep while nothing is connected and wakes it up when it's needed. The drawback to this is that tiny currents, like the timer light on a microwave, will not trigger the unit, so the microwave won't start. Your mobile phone charger will also probably not activate the inverter, so you still need to turn it on manually.

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2000 Watt Maximum Capacity Heavy-Duty Voltage Converter/Transformer Heavy duty for continuous use On/Off Power Switch LED Indicator for Power Source Single phase Dual Voltage Step Up or Step Down functionality Input: 110V/120V or 220V/230V/240V (Single Phase) Output 110V/120V or 220V/230V/240V (Single Phase) Input Selection in the rear of the converter Dimensions: 7.25" x 9.75" x 6" * Weight: 29 lbs. Four outlets for output in the front - 1 socket - Universal outlet (220v) - 1 socket - German Shucko outlet (220v) - 2 sockets - USA Grounded (110v) Fuse protected - Fuse will cut off the current if the transformer is overloaded to protect the transformer and your appliance NOTE: We recommend to use a Voltage Converter / Transformer that's max watts is at least 50% higher than your appliance. Some appliances such as Power tools, Motors, Laser printers and TVs require 2-3 times more watts at start up than the printed rating.

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European Power Converter - Finding the Best

!: European Power Converter - Finding the Best

When you're ready to travel across the country, you're going to find that your electronics may not be able to plug into the outlets, since a place like Europe is going to use a different type of power. Instead of purchasing a laptop, TV, or whatever it may be to work there, there are some converters that are going to work for you.

How can I find the right one?

The first thing that you're going to ask yourself is where you're heading. If you're going to Europe from the United States, you will want to find one that converts from the USA to Europe. If you're going from Europe to the USA, you will want to get one that's the other way around. Some will work with both, but it's important that you read the description to see which one is going to work for you.

Listed below are a few that you should check out when you're ready to make your purchase.

All-In-One Travel Power Plug - It's less than and is going to work with it's built in plug. Its convenient and it's fairly easy to use. You can plug this adapter in and it's going to work in over 150 countries! Simran 200 Watts - This one is going to set you back about . It converts 220/240V foreign power to 110V. It's great for laptops, ipods, battery chargers, and more. Universal World Wide by Eforcity - The last one on my list is very compact and is going to work in countries such as Europe, the Middle East, Africa, and more. It also comes with a built in surge protector.

European Power Converter - Finding the Best

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8 Common Voltage Converter Questions Answered

!: 8 Common Voltage Converter Questions Answered

Ten years ago, voltage converters were a curiosity... it was fantastic to know that we had mastered our universe to the degree that mains electricity could be converted to our requirements, but overall, converters weren't part of the daily lives of many. Nowadays, with the democratization of consumer electronics thanks to the Internet as well as increasing international travel, voltage converters are a common and necessary fact of life for many. Today we check out answers to 8 of the most common questions that people have about converters.

1. How do I know which converter to buy?
This will depend on the country that your appliance was manufactured in, the country in which you are using it, and its wattage or amperage. If you live in a country with 110V mains power and are buying from a country with 220V or 240V mains power, you'll need a step down converter. If you live in a country with 220V or 240V power and are buying from a 110V country, you'll need a step-up converter.

2. How do I know the wattage of my appliance?
You'll also need to know the wattage of your appliance to buy the correct converter, which you can usually discover by finding the little sticker or engraved information on it. Choose a voltage converter that is rated for slightly higher wattage than your appliance to ensure good performance.

3. Are there different requirements for TVs?
Yes. If you want to use a converter with your TV, you'll need a deluxe automatic voltage regulator rated for around 20% higher wattage than your set, because they create a power surge when they are turned on.

4. My American dryer is 220V, do I need a voltage converter to use it in Europe?
American dryers are usually 2-phase 100V power, compared to the single-phase 200V power in Europe.

5. Can I plug a powerboard into a voltage converter?
You can, but your voltage converter will need to be rated high enough to handle all of the appliances that will be plugged into the power board.

6. Do I need a voltage converter or a voltage regulator?
That depends on your appliance; a voltage regulator does the same job as a converter, but also stabilizes the current to plus or minus 4% of the voltage standard. In real life, while countries are said to run on 110V or 220V power, it can actually vary between 75V and 130V for 110V countries, and 180V to 260V in 200v countries.

7. I want to use the converter in a country with different plug pin shapes, what should I do?
Easy! Just put a plug adapter on top of your converter.

8. Do I need to convert the cycle (Hz)?
American power runs at around 60Hz, many foreign countries run at 50Hz. This will affect any appliances with motors (which will run more slowly), as well as clocks, which won't keep correct time.

Voltage converters are simple devices that are essential in our complex world!

8 Common Voltage Converter Questions Answered

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Arc Welding

!: Arc Welding

Arc welding is probably the most easily and readily available welding process on the face of the earth.

Just about anyone can get access to an one of these machines. Also called stick welding, and the technical name for this welding process is manual metal arc welding or MMAW for short.

But don't go around town saying that you can do or are doing MMAW welding or that you are doing manual metal arc welding. People will look at you and think you are a few beers short of a six pack.

It is just called arc welding or stick welding.

One of the main reasons why arc welding and stick welding is so readily available in any county is the simplicity of the arc welding process and machine.

Essentially an arc welder is just a big electrical transformer. Its job is to transform electricity. What does it transform it into you ask? Well the transformer in an arc welder will transform the power coming into the welder, i.e. from the power point at 110v, 220 or 240v or 415v etc into a more stable and controlled power supply that is usable for welding.

As hard as it is to believe, when you are arc welding the actual voltage at the welding arc is only very small, around about 20 volts give or take up or down a few.

So the transformer transforms the power from say 240volts down to about 20volts and in doing this it will allow there to be a usable welding arc.

Most arc welding and stick welding machines are DC, which is direct current. The electricity comes in from the power lead that is plugged into the wall socket at say 240v AC, and the transformer does its bit and steps the voltage down and rectifies the circuit so that it is now a DC source, ideal for welding.

You know that you can grab two 12 volt car batteries and hook them together to make 24 volts, and like this you can weld with them. Yeah true. Car batteries have very large current drawing capabilities, which is exactly what you need for welding. And see how the two batteries will equal 24volts, this is good enough to arc weld with.

Many people who go four wheel driving and long distance bush driving in Australia will usually have two batteries in their four wheel drives (SUV). So all you have to do is throw in a pack of general purpose electrodes either E6013 or E6012 of a small diameter (try 2.0mm) and you can arc weld out in the middle of the dessert if you needed to.

Any smart traveler will have a set of jumper leads in the back of the vehicle. So all you have to do is join the two batteries together using some existing wiring from the vehicle. This is done by joining the positive terminal of one battery to the negative terminal of the other battery.

Then simply clamp the jumper leads to the now larger 24volt battery, and you have a quick and simple arc welding machine that you can use to make roadside repairs in the middle of nowhere.

Cool...

Arc welding can be easy to learn if you do it the right way the first time.

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240 volt to 120 volt stepdown transformer

!: 240 volt to 120 volt stepdown transformer

1KVA 240v to 120v step down transformer. i use to run my 110v airconditioner from the 240v outlet. the transformer is capable of other voltages(480) with different configurations of jumpers.

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Simran THG-2000 Step Down Voltage Transformer 2000 Watts Converts AC 220 / 240 Volt to 110 Volt

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How to Use a Flip Over Saw

!: How to Use a Flip Over Saw

Preparation and setting up

When setting up a flip over saw it is important that you choose a suitable site to work from that is flat, level and free from loose materials, debris or rubble. Check that the flip over saw is firm and does not move.

Your power supply should be from a safe point with enough capacity for the start up surge of a powerful motor, often around 2000w. This supply should have some kind of circuit protection preferably a sensitive breaker that will trip in the even of an accident. If using a 110v transformer, site this next to the power point and use a suitable 110v extension lead to the flip over saw. DO NOT run a 240v extension lead to the 110v transformer at the saw!

Sensibly route the power cable to the flip over saw away from the work area and not suspended off the ground in any way to cause a trip hazard.

Gather together your personal protection equipment (PPE), which should at least comprise of suitable safety glasses and a good push stick if using the flip over saw in table cutting mode. Ear defenders are a good idea if in an enclosed space or if using the saw for extended periods and absolutely essential if cutting aluminium (special blade required) (as the noise from these blades can be horrendous!) If not using a dust extraction system then dust nuisance face masks should also be considered especially if ripping down long lengths of material or working in an enclosed space.

As always wear stout, steel toe capped boots, sensible clothes and tuck away anything loose that could be pulled into the blade. Wearing rings and other jewellery is not to be recommended either. Hard hats are needed if there is a danger from above or if passing long lengths of timber overhead.

Your material stock should be sited to hand and safely stacked, removing a single length should not cause the stack to collapse!

This writer likes to site the saw so that I don't have to walk around it to take the freshly cut workpiece back to the work place and then stack the materials to the left hand side for convenience. This leaves a clear route between the flip over saw and the workplace. Being efficient means getting more work done for less effort!

If cutting lengths longer than say 1 meter, some kind of side supports are going to be necessary. Either commercial saw supports or custom altered 'saw horses'. This writer uses metal folding type, saw horses with a timber packing piece screwed to the tops; making them the exact same height as the mitre saw 'bed'. Three is ideal, two to the left and one to the right to catch the off cut. Two to the left is needed as the material may get smaller and smaller if cutting several sections out of one length. This is essential for safe working and to prevent the blade snatching the workpiece as it cuts through.

Plan your work so that you minimise the amount of times that you need to 'flip' the saw over into table mode and back, if you can. For example; do all of the table saw cuts first and then switch to your mitre saw cuts. This is not always feasible or practical though and fortunately most flip over saws are quick to change over.

Working with a flip over saw

If you have set up as described above you are readily and will work efficiently and more importantly safely!

Mitre saw cuts

Material should be placed gently on the flip over saw and slid to the area to be marked and cut. Dropping heavy material on to the saw bed will eventually ruin the flip over saws accuracy settings and may even damage the saw.

Long lengths should be marked from the left and short lengths of say under a meter should be marked from the right. This is to ensure that the longer side of the material to be cut is to the left as this is the side which you will be firmly holding as the saw does its work.

Place the material under the blade and grasp the handle with blade guard release DO NOT PRESS THE POWER SWITCH AT THIS POINT.

Gently pull down the saw until the blade almost touches the material and adjust the material side to side, until the blade is positioned to the waste/off cut side of your mark.

Release the saw back to its resting point and keeping a firm grip on the workpiece, start the motor.

While waiting for the blade to reach full speed, listen to it. Become familiar with how the motor sounds and be vigilant to anything unusual. Sometimes small pieces of material get trapped in the guard mechanism and can rub against the blade until they fly out without warning! Stop, unplug the power and investigate any unusual sounds immediately!

With the blade at full speed and sounding good, gently pull the saw down into and through the workpiece. Become familiar with how the blade feels and cuts, learn to judge how much pressure to apply and do not slow the blade down excessively, about 10% or so is about right. Once all the way through the material, gently return the saw to its upright position, switch off the motor and wait for the blade to completely stop.

All done, you should now have the correct size workpiece. Ready for transferring to the workplace for fixing.

Never leave a flip over saw running in-between cuts. On a busy site a running motor can be dangerously and deceptively quiet.

Table saw cuts

Fold down the saw 'head' and secure as directed in the manufacturers instructions (they vary a little), 'flip' the saw over and listen for the locator catch to click. Always 'double check' visually that the saw bed is secured in position.

Always use the riving knife and blade guard when ripping down timber, again, as per manufacturers description. This stops the timber binding the blade after the cut and prevents the blade 'throwing' the timber back towards you at some speed!

Set up the fence or guide if making a parallel cut using the graduated marks on the saw table bed or by measuring between the fence and blade with a tape measure.

If you have set up the saw as per the earlier instructions you should have a clear area in front of the flip over saw (it is so tempting to stack material behind you, but as you can see, this is a mistake).

Once you are ready, start the flip over saw and step back from the machine with your material in hand. Again, listen to the motor as the blade spins up to full speed and place your material on the front edge of the table and line it up with the fence.

By now the blade will be running at full speed, gently but firmly feed the material into the blade, keeping a firm sideways and downwards pressure on the material into the guiding fence and table bed. Once you are about half way you have the option to stop, withdraw the material, turn it over end to end and run the other half through until you meet the first cut. Shorter lengths may be fed straight through in one go, keeping hands well away from the blade or use one or two push sticks.

Personally, this writer does not like to get any closer to a running blade than about 100mm or 4"; sure I know many that run much closer than this, but hey, I like all of my fingers!

Off cut management

Always know where your off cut is going to go. Small ones can fly out if not properly managed and long off cuts can tip and trap the blade also causing trouble. Good support is the answer, BEFORE, DURING and AFTER the cut.

Limitations

Assuming that you have the right size saw for the job in hand and it can physically cut the material. The only limitation that you will find with a flip over saw is that of having to continually flip the machine between the two modes if the work demands it or you don't properly plan your cuts. Flip over saws do mean that you need to look a little further ahead and think about what you are doing.

As with many combination machines there is some compromise to achieve the flexibility. With flip over saws this may mean that the table saw bed is a little small or that the capacity of the mitre saw is a little less because it doesn't have a sliding arm.

Ultimately though, using a flip over saw is simple coupled with good capabilities and versatility means that a flip over saw can handle most jobs, either on site or in the workshop at home.

Additional reading

Amazon stock several hundred books on this subject; search for power saws, table saws or mitre saws for best results.

Reviews can be found on most tool supply sites these days.

Conclusions

Choose a suitable and safe site to set up the flip over saw, ideally away from other workers.

Ensure that the flip over saw is on a firm base and does not move.

Use a safe protected, power supply and sensible cable routing.*

Ensure your 'push stick' and personal protection equipment (PPE) are to hand.

Arrange materials close to hand and safely stacked to your left (when facing the saw).

Ensure your route from the flip over saw to the workplace is logical, clear and safe.

Plan your work, dividing jobs into mitre saw and table saw modes.

Use side supports if material is over a meter long.

Mark material from the left unless the cut is under a meter, then mark from the right.

Firmly hold workpiece and don't allow the blade to touch the material until up to full speed.

Never leave the saw running in between cuts.

Always use the riving knife and blade guard when ripping down material.

Keep your hand/fingers at least 100mm plus away from a running blade.

Clean off sawdust and pack away carefully for next time.

Carefully wipe the blade with a light oil if not using the saw again for several weeks.

Keep the saw storage area locked and the saw under an old sheet or blanket.

Warnings

Your protected power supply should be from a safe point with enough capacity for the start up surge of a powerful motor, often around 2000w.

If using a 110v transformer, site this next to the power point and use a suitable 110v extension lead to the flip over saw. DO NOT run a 240v extension lead to the 110v transformer at the saw!

Sensibly route the power cable to the flip over saw away from the work area and not suspended off the ground in any way to cause a trip hazard.

Gather together your personal protection equipment (PPE), which should at least comprise of suitable safety glasses and a good push stick if using the flip over saw in table cutting mode.

Ear defenders are a good idea if in an enclosed space or if using the saw for extended periods and absolutely essential if cutting aluminium (special blade required; as the noise from these blades can be horrendous!)

Consider Dust nuisance face masks if not using an extraction system.

As always wear stout, steel toe capped boots, sensible clothes and tuck away anything loose that could be pulled into the blade.

Wearing rings and other jewellery is not to be recommended either.

Hard hats are also needed if there is a danger from above or if passing long lengths of timber overhead.

How to Use a Flip Over Saw

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Buying Guide for Voltage Converters

!: Buying Guide for Voltage Converters

Voltage converters are a fairly simple piece of equipment... but that certainly doesn't mean that you don't need to pay attention to quality! Getting the wrong converter, or a poor quality converter, can literally fry the circuits in your appliances. Any damage done by using a poor quality converter would certainly not be covered by warranty, either. Given that it is difficult to tell how a voltage converter is working, it makes sense to play it safe, do the research to ensure you're getting the right model, and to buy well above the bottom of the range for safety.

What type of converter do I need?

If you're going from low voltage appliance to high voltage mains (110 - 220V), you'll need a step up converter. If you're going from high voltage appliance to low voltage mains (220V or 240V to 110V), you'll need a step down converter.

If you're going from a country with 50Hz cycle power to 60Hz or vice versa, you should also get a converter that can change the cycle of power. Appliances with motors may run too fast and burn out more quickly, also appliances with inbuilt clocks won't keep correct time on a different cycle of power.

If you are going from DC to AC power, you'll need an 'inverter', not a 'converter'.

Look for...

When you're buying a converter, look for the following safety and performance features:

* Fuse protection: If there is a power surge in a step-down converter, it can really damage the appliances - fuse protection prevents this occurring.
* On-off switches: These are actually very handy; they help prevent your appliance shorting in the time it is being plugged in.
* Power on indicator: Of course, if you're going to have an on-off switch, it makes sense to have an easy way to tell what it's flipped to!
* AC shockproof sockets: Another fairly essential safety feature
* Durable cords and chassis: You'll want to ensure there is no risk of shock from poorly made cords or structurally inadequate equipment.
* Regulator: Not all converters are voltage regulators, and it isn't always necessary to get regulator. However, if you have an appliance that is especially sensitive to voltage, it can help prevent problems and extend its lifespan by buying a converter that is also a regulator.
* Plug converters included! Of course, this is not an essential feature either... but you can't imagine how many people get their voltage converter in the post, rush to plug in their new appliance, and find forlornly that the plug shapes don't match!

Voltage Converter Brands

Many converters are not branded; many good voltage converters are also sold through small, independently owned websites. You certainly want to buy quality when you are getting a voltage converter, but you don't need to go to a national chain store or find a converter made by a massive multinational to avoid damaging your appliances.

Your best guide to quality in converters is price. Compare the prices from 3 different stores before you buy, and go for a model that is either mid- or top-of-the-range.

Buying Guide for Voltage Converters

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Electrical Plug Adapters

!: Electrical Plug Adapters

There are two essential aspects to take note of. At the first instance, it is important to note that the electrical power specifications may vary from country to country that you are visiting. Not many countries have a electrical power specification as you have at home, and hence you should have the right adapter with you when you travel abroad. Secondly, the kind of wall mounted power outlet sockets in most of the countries, are not usually the ones that you find at home. It is entirely different, and your device power input plug may not fit into that socket at all.

The mains power voltage specifications differ from country to country. For example, the electrical and electronic devices in U.S. operate on 120 Volts AC, but the United Kingdom has a 220 volts AC outlet, which is different from the one in the United States. Secondly, your device power input plug will never fit the power outlet sockets available in the United Kingdom. Therefore, if you are traveling from home to the United Kingdom, you do not only need an adapter for your device power input plug, but a voltage converter as well, of the type which would convert the 220 Volts AC electrical power output to 110 Volts AC for your device to work properly.

It is recommended that, when-ever you plan your next visit abroad, take a look at the guide of the power outlet specifications available in the country or countries that you are visiting and prepare yourself to carry appropriate electrical Accessories for those devices to work properly. There are indeed universal plug adapters available, which will comply with the power out input sockets of many countries, but the need of voltage converters cannot be ignored

A guide to international electric outlet specification is presented below:

COUNTRY VOLTAGE FREQUENCY

Afghanistan 220V 50 Hz

Albania 20V* 50 Hz

Algeria 230V 50 Hz

American Samoa 120V 60 Hz

Andorra 230V 50Hz

Angola 220V 50 Hz

Anguilla 110V 60Hz

Antigua 230V* 60 Hz

Argentina 220V 50 Hz

Armenia 220V 50 Hz

Aruba 127V* 60 Hz
Australia 230V* 50 Hz

Austria 230V 50 Hz

Azerbaijan 220V 50 Hz

Azores 220V* 50 Hz

Bahamas 120V 60 Hz

Bahrain 230V* 50 Hz*

Balearic Islands 220V 50 Hz

Bangladesh 220V 50 Hz

Barbados 115V 50 Hz

Belarus 220V 50 Hz

Belgium 230V 50 Hz

Belize 110/220V 60 Hz

Benin 220V 50 Hz

Bermuda 120V 60 Hz

Bhutan 230V 50 Hz

Bolivia 220/230V* 50 Hz

Bosnia 220V 50 Hz

Botswana 231V 50 Hz

Brazil 110/220V* 60 Hz

Brunei 240V 50 Hz

Bulgaria 230V 50 Hz

Burkina Faso 220V 50 Hz

Burundi 220V 50 Hz

Cambodia 230V 50 Hz

Cameroon 220V 50 Hz

Canada 120V 60 Hz

Canary Islands 220V 50 Hz

Cape Verde 220V 50 Hz

Cayman Islands 120V 60 Hz

Central African Republic 220V 50 Hz

Chad 220V 50Hz

Channel Islands 230V 50 Hz

Chile 220V 50 Hz

China, People's Republic of 220V 50 Hz

Colombia 110V 60Hz

Comoros 220V 50 Hz

Congo, People's Rep. of 230V 50 Hz

Congo, Dem. Rep. of (former Zaire) 220V 50 Hz

Cook Islands 240V 50 Hz

Costa Rica 120V 60 Hz

Côte d'Ivoire

(Ivory Coast) 220V 50 Hz

Croatia 230V 50Hz

Cuba 110/220V 60Hz

Cyprus 240V 50 Hz

Czech Republic 230V 50 Hz

Denmark 230V 50 Hz

Djibouti 220V 50 Hz

Dominica 230V 50 Hz

Dominican Republic 110V 60 Hz

East Timor 220V 50 Hz

Ecuador 120-127V 60 Hz

Egypt 220V 50 Hz

El Salvador 115V 60 Hz

England (See United Kingdom)

Equatorial Guinea 220V* 50 Hz

Eritrea 230V 50 Hz

Estonia 230V 50 Hz

Ethiopia 220V 50 Hz

Faeroe Islands 220V 50 Hz

Falkland Islands 240V 50 Hz

Fiji 240V 50 Hz

Finland 230V 50 Hz

France 230V 50 Hz

French Guiana 220V 50 Hz

Gaza 230V 50 Hz

Gabon 220V 50 Hz

Gambia 230V 50 Hz

Germany 230V 50 Hz

Ghana 230V 50 Hz

Gibraltar 240V 50 Hz

Great Britain (See United Kingdom)

Greece 220V 50 Hz

Greenland 220V 50 Hz

Grenada (Windward Is.) 230V 50 Hz

Guadeloupe 230V 50 Hz

Guam 110V 60Hz

Guatemala 120V 60 Hz

Guinea 220V 50 Hz

Guinea-Bissau 220V 50 Hz

Guyana 240V* 60 Hz*

Haiti 110V 60 Hz

Honduras 110V 60 Hz

Hong Kong 220V* 50 Hz

Hungary 230V 50 Hz

Iceland 220V 50 Hz

India 230V 50 Hz

Indonesia 127/230V* 50 Hz

Iran 230V 50 Hz

Iraq 230V 50 Hz

Ireland (Eire) 230 50 Hz

Isle of Man 240V 50 Hz

Israel 230V 50 Hz

Italy 230V 50 Hz

Ivory Coast (See Côte d'Ivoire)

Jamaica 110V 50 Hz

Japan 100V 50/60 Hz*

Jordan 230V 50 Hz

Kenya 240V 50 Hz

Kazakhstan 220V 50 Hz

Kiribati 240V 50 Hz

Korea, South 220V 60 Hz

Kuwait 240V 50 Hz

Laos 230V 50 Hz

Latvia 220V 50 Hz

Lebanon 110/220V 50 Hz

Lesotho 220V 50 Hz

Liberia 120V 60 Hz

Libya 127V* 50 Hz

Lithuania 220V 50 Hz

Liechtenstein 230V 50 Hz

Luxembourg 220V 50 Hz

Macau 220V 50 Hz

Macedonia 220V 50 Hz

Madagascar 220V 50 Hz

Madeira 220V 50 Hz

Malawi 230V 50 Hz

Malaysia 240V 50 Hz

Maldives 230V 50 Hz

Mali 220V 50 Hz

Malta 240V 50 Hz

Martinique 220V 50 Hz

Mauritania 220V 50 Hz

Mauritius 230V 50 Hz

Mexico 127V 60 Hz

Micronesia (Federal States of) 120V 60 Hz

Monaco 127/220V 50 Hz

Mongolia 230V

Montserrat (Leeward Is.) 230V 60 Hz

Morocco 127/220V* 50 Hz

Mozambique 220V 50 Hz

Myanmar (formerly Burma) 230V 50 Hz

Namibia 220V 50 Hz

Nauru 240V 50 Hz

Nepal 230V 50 Hz

Netherlands 230V 50 Hz

Netherlands Antilles 127/220V* 50 Hz

New Caledonia 220V 50 Hz

New Zealand 230V 50 Hz

Nicaragua 120V 60 Hz

Niger 220V 50 Hz

Nigeria 240V 50 Hz

Northern Ireland (see United Kingdom)

Norway 230V 50 Hz

Okinawa 100V* 60 Hz

Oman 240V* 50 Hz

Pakistan 230V 50 Hz

Palmyra Atoll 120V 60Hz

Panama 110V* 60 Hz

Papua New Guinea 240V 50 Hz

Paraguay 220V 50 Hz

Peru 220V* 60 Hz*

Philippines 220V 60 Hz

Poland 230V 50 Hz

Portugal 230V 50 Hz

Puerto Rico 120V 60 Hz

Qatar 240V 50 Hz

Réunion Island 220V 50Hz

Romania 230V 50 Hz

Russian Federation 220V 50 Hz

Rwanda 230V 50 Hz

St. Kitts and Nevis (Leeward Is.) 230V 60 Hz

St. Lucia (Windward Is.) 240V 50 Hz

St. Vincent (Windward Is.) 230V 50 Hz

Saudi Arabia 127/220V 60 Hz

Scotland (See United Kingdom)

Senegal 230V 50 Hz

Serbia-Montenegro 220V 50 Hz

Seychelles 240V 50 Hz

Sierra Leone 230V 50 Hz

Singapore 230V 50 Hz

Slovak Republic 230V 50 Hz

Slovenia 220V 50 Hz

Somalia 220V* 50 Hz

South Africa 220/230V* 50 Hz

Spain 230V 50 Hz

Sri Lanka 230V 50 Hz

Sudan 230V 50 Hz

Suriname 127V 60 Hz

Swaziland 230V 50 Hz

Sweden 230V 50 Hz

Switzerland 230V 50 Hz

Syria 220V 50 Hz

Tahiti 110/220V 60 Hz

Tajikistan 220V 50 Hz

Taiwan 110V 60 Hz

Tanzania 230V 50 Hz

Thailand 220V 50 Hz

Togo 220V* 50 Hz

Tonga 240V 50 Hz

Trinidad & Tobago 115V 60 Hz

Tunisia 230V 50 Hz

Turkey 230V 50 Hz

Turkmenistan 220V 50 Hz

Uganda 240V 50 Hz

Ukraine 220V 50 Hz

United Arab Emirates 220V* 50 Hz

United Kingdom 230V* 50 Hz

United States of America 120V 60 Hz

Uruguay 220V 50 Hz

Uzbekistan 220V 50 Hz

Vanuatu 230V 50 Hz

Venezuela 120V 60 Hz

Vietnam 127/220V* 50 Hz

Virgin Islands (British and U.S.) 115V 60 Hz

Wales (See United Kingdom)

Western Samoa 230V 50 Hz

Yemen, Rep. of 220/230V 50 Hz

Yugoslavia (Former) 220V 50 Hz

Zambia 230V 50 Hz

Zimbabwe 220V 50 Hz

Primary sources: Electric Current Abroad (1998 edition), U.S. Department of Commerce, National Technical Information Service; World Electricity Supplies and Electrical Plugs; an International Survey, (both 1993), British Standards Institute. Additionally, since this table was first posted in late 1995, numerous revisions have (and continue to be) made as a result of personal observations or reports from other travelers.

For further references please visit http://www.mindlogic.com/VOLT_ADPT.shtml

Now, it is not the question of having the right adapter with you when you visit abroad. You must be also concerned with the electrical power specification that is available in the country of your visit. Looking at the guide above, it is clearly understood that your electrical and electronic devices will require not only plug adapters but also a built-in or separate voltage converter. If you are planning a visit to the United Kingdom, you will need a device which converts the electrical power of 230 Volts Alternating Current (AC) to 110 Volts AC before you can apply that power to your equipment.. These converters need to be of the right specification of providing the right output alternating current and the frequency as well for your equipment to work correctly.

If you need to charge your digital camera in Beijing, you will need an adapter which lets you plug in your charger on the wall socket. That's not all. Beijing has an electrical power output of 220 Volts AC with 50 Hz frequency and your charger can only accept an input voltage of 120 Volts AC and 60Hz. Hz, which is the short form of Hertz, is the number of cycles the alternating voltage goes through one cycle. This AC output voltage is normally a sine-wave, alternating between a positive and a negative level. This is a smooth variation with time as the other variant, and completion of one such cycle in one second is termed as 1Hz. Therefore, a 110 Volt AC of 60 Hz has 60 cycles in one second.

Remaining on the aspect of charging your digital camera in Beijing, you do not only need a plug adapter but also the right voltage converter, which will give you a 120 Volts AC, 60 Hz output from an input of 220 Volts AC of 50 Hz, which is the standard electrical power in China. The converted AC voltage applied to your charger produces a much lower Direct Current (DC) voltage output to your digital camera, for charging the camera's re-chargeable battery. Application of the direct 220 Volts AC output, without a converter will not only destroy the charger unit but may also damage your digital camera, if it is plugged into the charger,

Therefore, when you travel abroad, it is desirable that you check the electrical power specification of the country or countries that you are visiting. At the same time you should determine the plug adapter that you would be wanting. For this purpose you may like to visit http://www.mindlogic.com/VOLT_ADPT.shtml for more information.

Voltage converters are available in different specifications, which mainly depend upon the purpose of its application. For example, a voltage converter for your digital camera recharging unit will be much smaller than the one you would need to turn on your iron, if you have one with you. The varying sizes of such converters depend upon the kind of alternating current or wattage that you would require to either turn on the charger or the iron. The wattage along with the specification of input and output voltages are generally specified on the body of the converter units that you are buying.

There are adapters available which cater for multi-voltage operation. For example, the adapter itself will give you an option to be switched from 110 Volts AC output to 230 volts AC output. This is done through a toggle, at times appearing as a screw head on the converter body itself. But then again you may need a plug adapter to plug this mini-converter in the electrical power source available in the country that you are visiting. In certain countries the electrical power may have surges. Surges are high frequency levels of very high voltages, suddenly appearing at the output of the power source for a fraction of a millisecond or even micro-second. There are such adapters which are available with surge protection. Please bear in mind, thunderstorms can produce these electrical surges which may damage your equipment.

Please visit http://www.planetomni.com/VOLT_ADPT.shtml for more information on plug converter, travel adapter, international plug adapters, ac dc plug, foreign plugs adapters, travel adapters plugs, electrical converter, foreign power plug, universal plugs, electric adapter travel, universal plug adapter, travel electrical plug adaptor, adaptor plugs, plug adapter, international phone jacks.

Electrical Plug Adapters

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Power Bright VC100W Voltage Transformer 100 Watt Step Up/Down 110 Volt - 220 Volt

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This is a voltage converter or transformer that can be used as a step up transformer in 110/120 volt countries or as a step down transformer in 220/230/240 volt countries. This heavy duty voltage transformer can be used for continuous duty. It will convert voltages of 220-240 volts to 110-120 and will also convert voltages from 110-120 to 220-240 volts.

• Power Bright VC1000W Voltage Transformer 1000 Watt Step Up/Down 110 Volt - 220 Volt
• Power Bright VC500W Voltage Transformer 500 Watt Step Up/Down 110 Volt - 220 Volt
• Power Bright VC200W Voltage Transformer 200 Watt Step Up/Down 110 Volt - 220 Volt
• All-in-One Travel Power Plug Adapter for US, UK, EU, AU
• Power Bright VC3000W Voltage Transformer 3000 Watt Step Up/Down 110 Volt - 220 Volt

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LiteFuze 500 Watt Voltage Converter

!: LiteFuze 500 Watt Voltage Converter

This converters comes with an instruction manual, a universal plug for Asia, and two extra fuses. You plug the converter in to the outlet. Make sure the switch is set to 110v to use it in the US, Turn on the switch. Plug the 220v appliance or electronic item into the 220v universal socket. Turn the unit on, and it should work.

LiteFuze 500 Watt Voltage Converter

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LiteFuze 50-1600 Watt Travel Voltage Converter Transformer Kit Worldwide Socket Plug Adapters

!: LiteFuze 50-1600 Watt Travel Voltage Converter Transformer Kit Worldwide Socket Plug Adapters

www.popularelect.com www.popularelect.com Our Contact Popular Electronics 2455 W. Devon Ave. Chicago, Illinois 60659 (773) 338-5460 LiteFuze 50-1600 Watt Travel Voltage Converter Transformer Kit with Worldwide Socket Plug Adapters - Step Down 220/240V to 110V/120V Convert Foreign Power to a Familiar Language American electrical appliances are designed to operate on 110/120 volts, yet most of the world operates on 220/240 volts. The 50/1600-Watt Converter Kit includes a converter that must be manually switched from one voltage to another.The kit includes an international adapter set of four plugs for Japan, Continental Europe, Australia, China, United Kingdom, and Hong Kong, and comes with a travel case. Converts 220/240-volt Electricity to 110/120-volt power for use in locations world-wide Includes 5 adapters for different plug-in types around the world 1600W - Designed for heat-related (resistive) appliances like hair dryers, irons, heating pads, etc 50W - Designed for small electronics such as battery charger, phone charger, shavers, mp3 players.. Fuse Protection, Travel Case, Small and compact size - weighs only 1.5 lbs! size: 6" x 4" x 3"

LiteFuze 50-1600 Watt Travel Voltage Converter Transformer Kit Worldwide Socket Plug Adapters

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